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hank
Member
USA
159 Posts |
 Posted - 09/01/2008 : 20:31:04
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Ok, so far we have a Drilled Hole Method and a Band Saw Method of making the Flame Ports (Holes). I’ll not dispute either method since this is just an article on constructing a Pipe Burner Safely.
Spacing: We two theories on Burner Hole spacing. ¾” and ½”. Interesting! More on that subject later.
What Pipe Type to use:
Galvanized: Not on your Life.
Seamed Pipe: Not very safe.
Black Steel: Bingo. You scored 3 points.
Black Steel threaded on BOTH Ends.
Whether you decide to Drill or Saw is up to you. Either way, do yourself a favor or perform the following tasks prior to and afterwards.
Use Cutting Oil on the Pipe. This will help preserve the Blade or Drill Bit. If you decide to Drill the Holes, pay the Price and purchase a good Brand Bit and make sure it is for Metal and is made of Titanium. I use Titanium Bits when I drill ¼” angle iron and they last for a long time.
This deals with Post Drilling or Cutting the Burner Ports. If you’ve ever drill thru a piece of wood, you know that will NEVER drill a Clean Hole. There is always bits of wood that hang onto the exit hole edges. I sometimes refer to this as loose ends. The same thing happens to holes drilled or cut into metal. The problem with Loose Ends in Pipe Burners is they form HOT SPOTS in the Pipe. These Hot Spots will cause Flame distortion and eventually lead to the Flame Ports becoming larger or distorted.
The way to prevent this is simple.
Once you have Drilled or Cut your Flame Ports, take a VERY stiff Brass Brush and clean the interior of the Pipe until ALL the Loose ends are removed. Then, run the Bit/Blade thru the Flame Port again. Re-inspect the Pipe until all the Loose Ends are gone. This will prolong the life of the Pipe Burner.
More on this later.
Hank
Cooks Rule ! |
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hank
Member
USA
159 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 08:44:11
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Here is a Web Site that shows details on making a Pipe Burner.
http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?t=28224
This guy used “Untested Pipe”. He states that “Untested Pipe” has the Seam down the length of the Pipe and it’s not rated for pressure. This is normally Schedule 40 Pipe. He also gives his reasons for NOT using Black Steel Pipe.
There are those who subscribe to the 10” Rule and those that go with the 4” Rule. These rules pertain to the distance from the Air Mixer (Venturi) to the First Flame Port (Hole).
As previously stated, the folks from Tejas Smokers disagree with both of these rules. I guess it’s because the Venturi’s that they sell (HPGX-1) do the job pretty well.
Here’s some more interesting reading material.
http://www.wedlinydomowe.com/smokehouse-burners.htm
This site explains a Lot about Venturi (Air/Mixers), Safety Control Valves, Thermocouples, Hole Sizes, etc. They also explain why the Venturi should always be outside of the Cooking Chamber (Cooker). There are some Great pictures shown here that speak for themselves. This is a Must Read for anyone who wants to construct a Pipe Burner safely.
Primary/Secondary Air:
The Primary Air enters the Venturi which is placed OUTSIDE the Cooking Chamber. Secondary Air is the surrounding Air that feeds the Flames. If the surrounding Air is Not sufficient then you’ll suffer Flame Out. That is why it’s imperative that you have Air Vents at the Bottom of the Cooker. I personally would recommend at least 1 on all 4 sides of the Cooker. Go to this Web Site and take a look at this Cooker. You’ll need to look at all the options the offer to see the Air Vents and you’ll notice a Gold Tube that is above the Venturi in one of the photos. That’s the Thermocouple Tube. It’s shown in the “Extra Top Cooking Grate” option.
http://www.bqgrills.com/New%20Small%20Cooker%20Page.htm
In the First photo, you’ll notice that the Wooden Shelf is being supported by 2 Triangle shaped boxes. These are basically Wind Shields that prevent a Strong Wind from blowing into the Cooker and causing a Flame Out.
Will post again with some more info.
Hank
Cooks Rule ! |
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hank
Member
USA
159 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 09:30:08
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Continuing on, there is an alternative option to the Pipe Burner. You may want to consider this method is you don’t have the Tools to construct the Pipe Burner. These are sold at the following Web Sites.
http://www.tejassmokers.com/castironburners.htm
Above, look for the HPGX-2
http://www.cajunshoppe.com/cast2.htm
The HPGX-1, HPGX-2, HPBX-1 and HPGX-2 are shown here.
Either way, you would mount these in the Bottom of the Cooker and extend the Pipe and Venturi to the Outside of the Cooker. You’ll still need Air Vents in the Bottom of the Cooker.
Grease Shield:
Whether you go with the Pipe Burner or the Cast Iron Burners, you’ll still need a Grease Shield above the Burners to Prevent Grease from falling into the Burner. This would lead to the Flame Ports getting clogged up and possible a Flame Out. I would recommend an inverted V Shaped Shield mounted at least 5” above the Burner Assembly. There are those who say that they use a Water Pan above the Burners. I’m not a Water Pan guy. What happens if all the Water evaporates during the Cooking Process? Grease collects in the Pan, the Pan gets Hot and the Grease may flare up. But, that’s just my opinion.
Okay, back to Pipe Burners. Here is something interesting to look at. It’s the Pipe Burners from the Burnersinc Web Site. Search the PDF Catalog for Pipe Burners. Here they give the Pipe Length, Flame Length and the BTU Rating for their different models. Subtract the Flame Length from the Pipe Length and you see that on their Pipes, there is a difference between the two. The difference ranges from 5” to 14”. The longer the pipe, the greater the difference.
http://www.burnersinc.com/catalog/catalog/catalog.pdf
While you’re looking at the Catalog, do a search for the Safety Control Valves (H-100) and (H-100-NP). The H-100-NP does not have the Pilot Light Option. Both of the H-100 models sell for about $45.00. The Thermocouples are listed below the Safety Valves.
They have a Secondary Web Site that contains addition info worth reading about Pipe Burners.
http://www.burnersinc.com/pipeburners/pipeburnerfaq.pdf
Hank
Cooks Rule ! |
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circleburner12
Member
USA
253 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 16:59:02
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hank thanks for all the info!. I want a set-up with propane that i can set at a certain temp and when the gas gets to that temp it shuts off, when the pit temp drops the propane kicks on and brings the pit back to the certain setting. kinda like what the bbq guru does but with gas.
any ideas? thxs michael
michael |
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hank
Member
USA
159 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 18:03:29
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Mike,
I'll look around. My research hasn't turned up anything like that; but that's not to say it's not out there somewhere. Thanks for the kind words.
Hank
Cooks Rule ! |
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hank
Member
USA
159 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 18:08:06
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The Safety Issue continues.
Ok, you make a Pipe Burner or you get a couple of Cast Iron Burners and you mount them in your Cooker. And let’s say you didn’t install Air Vents in the Bottom of the Cooker and you didn’t want to spend the money for Safety Control Valves or Thermocouples. Now, guess what? You’ve constructed a perfect Time Bomb. Let’s see what can happen.
You get a Flame Out and the Propane is still coming out of the Flame Ports (Burner Holes). Since Propane is Heavy that Air, it sinks to the Bottom of the Cooker and begins to build up. You decide to add some Smoking Wood to the Cooker. You slide in your Smoke Box and a single spark ignites the built up Propane Gas. BOOM !!! There goes the Cooker and possible anyone standing around your Pride and Joy.
Check out this thread.
http://www.barbecuenews.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17635
Or watch this Youtube Video Clip
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwAZi4wLaZQ
The reason I’m against attaching a Brass Orifice to a Steel Pipe is this. To make this connection requires that you do a GOOD Brazing (Welding) Job. If you don’t, one day the Orifice may get struck and the Brazing or Welding Joint could weaken or break. If this happens, then the Gas may start escaping to the Outside of the Cooker. Not only does your cooking temperature drop, you’re letting Gas collect around the Bottom of the Cooker. Dropping a cigarette or sparks from a Chimney Starter could lead to a disaster. If you’re confident with Brazing or Welding then you’re OK. If not, get the job done by someone who is.
Here’s another Tip. Several of the Web Sites I’ve mentioned sell Bug Screens for their Venturi’s. These Screens only cost a couple of bucks and they help prevent Bugs from crawling into your Burner. Bugs and Spiders Love the smell of Propane. These critters can form nested that might clog up the Burner Ports.
The Cajun Shoppe also sells Brass Nipples, Orifices and a lot of other Brass fittings you may need to get your Burner working. These folks are Great to work with.
http://www.cajunshoppe.com/brassf.htm
More on this Tomorrow…
Hank
Cooks Rule ! |
Edited by - hank on 09/02/2008 20:03:01 |
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bigred77
Starting Member
USA
16 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 20:12:23
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quote:
Originally posted by circleburner12
hank thanks for all the info!. I want a set-up with propane that i can set at a certain temp and when the gas gets to that temp it shuts off, when the pit temp drops the propane kicks on and brings the pit back to the certain setting. kinda like what the bbq guru does but with gas.
any ideas? thxs michael
michael
I am not sure, but on page 17 of the burnersinc catalog hank linked above, looks to be what you are looking for.
Also, I know Wiley pits (myjobisthepits.com) offers a setup like what you are describing |
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hank
Member
USA
159 Posts |
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Half Fast
Member
USA
288 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 23:08:13
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Hey circleburner, just rob all the working parts from a home gas oven. Gas valve/thermostat, ignitor, flame rod, and even the burner. It can all be mounted in your cooker with just a little adaptation. It will work exactly as if it was still in the oven.
Just find a used gas stove at garage sales, flea markets, newspaper ads, etc. Usually when a gas stove is replaced, it's due to the top burners not being so good, but the oven components are usually in good condition.
Regards,
Even Half Fast BBQ is better than real fast BBQ! |
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hank
Member
USA
159 Posts |
Posted - 09/03/2008 : 08:20:54
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Half Fast,
Not a Bad Idea !! Beats 460 Bucks ! I'd just make sure ALL the components are in good working condition. If it's Natural Gas, you will have to Modify the Parts somewhat. I'd look for an RV or Marine Propane Gas Oven.
Hank
Cooks Rule ! |
Edited by - hank on 09/03/2008 08:27:01 |
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hank
Member
USA
159 Posts |
Posted - 09/03/2008 : 10:01:22
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Here is a Site that gives info on converting a Natural Gas Oven to an Lp Oven. Hope it helps. This is for Info Only !
Hank
Cooks Rule ! |
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Half Fast
Member
USA
288 Posts |
Posted - 09/03/2008 : 19:56:37
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Hank & circleburner, typically the only change needed from natural gas to LP is to change the oriface. There are conversion charts available to match one to the other. Natural always uses a much larger oriface than LP due to the pressure difference.
I've converted many stoves, ovens, and home furnaces form one to the other. It's not a big deal to go either way. The oriface itself is nothing more than a small brass fitting that screws into the terminal end of the gas hose/line.
Just an aside but the components from an RV or marine gas appliance will almost always be set up for LP to begin with. Also, those components are the same as used in a home oven although sometimes a little smaller BTU wise.
Regards,
Even Half Fast BBQ is better than real fast BBQ! |
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circleburner12
Member
USA
253 Posts |
Posted - 09/04/2008 : 10:29:47
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thanks for all the info!, i did talk to a guy from wileypits. he said he can set me up with what i wanted. waiting for a call back from them. i'll let ya no what he says.thxs
michael |
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hank
Member
USA
159 Posts |
Posted - 09/04/2008 : 14:46:01
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My Pleasure Mike,
Keep it safe and enjoy the BBQ ! 
Hank
Cooks Rule ! |
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g8trwood
Starting Member
27 Posts |
Posted - 09/04/2008 : 17:24:15
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Hank,
I have the narrow blade one the portaband, it is probably around 1/16th across. I placed my venturi 10" from the first slot. I welded a 1 1/2 to 3/4 pipe reducer to my pipe. I then took a smaller 1/2 to 1/8 pipe reducer and welded it into the center after threading it all the way through. I drilled a 1/16 hole in a brass plug that I ran into the center piece. I also drilled 6-1 1/2" holes (3 on each side of the burner)in the bottom to allow fresh air to the flames. The venturi is on the outside as you suggest. I am looking to add a gas shut off for safety. I will not allow anyone else to use the smoker for that reason. I have found that the inlet air is the key and I have restricted the inlet to avoid choking out the burner (I needed bigger stacks). My fire box also enters 4" above my burner to avoid a flame out that backs up into the fire box.
PoPoQ, Put some pig in your mouth and a smile on our face. |
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